Thursday, September 29, 2011

Bombas Lacrimógenas: Gettin´ Rowdy In Santiago

I bet ya´ll didn´t expect to hear from me so soon.  But don´t worry, the cats did not return last night.  Believe-it-or-not, I have something much better for ya´ll.  My First Tear Gas Experience.  Yippee!!  Tear Gas = Bombas Lacrimógenas in Spanish.

So things have been heating up in Santiago and Chile in general with the student protests/demands for a change in the education system.  Recently, the student leaders of FECH agreed to hold talks with Piñera´s government.  However, they said that the protests and student demonstrations would not cease.  And they aren´t.  In fact, today they came across loud and clear.  The march started down the street from where I go to school at Plaza Italia but quickly spread throughout the downtown area.  Honestly, things didn´t seem any different going to class this morning etc.  Just another Thursday with marches down the street.  No big deal.  However, around 1:00PM when a group of us gringos were eating lunch outside, the air started to get a little tense as the students were on edge.  Even the vendors started to move their carts down the road.  Occasionally, you would see all the students take off running.  Kind of a weird feeling walking in one direction and then all of a sudden everyone turns around and starts running towards you... Well, they´re running away from the police, obviously, who are using water bombs as well as tear gas to control the crowds.  These manifestaciones can quickly turn violent if one trashcan is overturned or one rock is thrown.  As gringos and international students, we are told to stay as far away as possible.  And usually we do... But before we know it, the potent stench of tear gas comes floating our way.  Luckily it wasn't as concentrated as it could have been but it was enough to make your throat feel as if it were on fire as it starts to close up and as tears begin to stream down your face.  Everyone was sneezing the rest of the day.  It is some crazy stuff let me tell you.  I can't even imagine actually protesting and getting that stuff sprayed literally all around you.  Known fact, lemons help.  So all over the streets you could see discarded lemon carcasses.  Kinda wild, right?


Anywhoo, since I am already writing to ya'll, I should go ahead and tell you about the delicious Peruvian food I ate tonight.  Pretty darn fantastic.  I went all out and got pescado y mariscos con arroz - white fish, scallops, octopus, calamari, the whole nine yards topped with this amazing yellow cream sauce.  I was very satisfecha, needless to say.  Yum, yum.  Tomorrow (Friday) night, my host mom is going to prepare Chilean completos, which are the hot dogs they top with tomato, mayo, and avocado.  I've already tried one (which I didn't like...) but my host mom is convinced that I will like hers (which I probably will... I mean, who doesn't like hotdogs, let alone topped with mayo, avocado, and tomato? haha).  No really, I'll probably eat two.  :)  Also, mañana I am going with friends to a vineyard outside of Santiago in the Maipo Valley.  So next time ya'll go to Hy-Vee looking for a good cabernet to have with your delicious Iowa corn-fed meat, go with the Chilean Maipo Valley... I'll let you know how it goes.  So expect another blog post at the end of this weekend.


Hope ya'll enjoy your weekend!!


¡Ciao!




Just in case you all are interested in a little light reading...


BBC Article: Chilean Student Protests


Santiago Times Article

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

El Amor de los Gatos

Where do I begin?  En serio... Where do I begin?


Yesterday (Tuesday):  In my Advanced Writing class, where there are only three students and the prof (all chicas), we were chatting about horror movies and things of the sort.  We were talking about The Orphan, The Grudge, The Ring, The Others (I am seeing a pattern here... weird) and many more creepy flicks.  My prof mentioned a movie called Los Ojos de Lucia and told me she would bring it from home for me to watch with my host sister, Maca, who loves horror films as do I.  Anyways so our class went off on a tangent about dark, rainy nights and somewhat satanic things of the sort, cachai?  Okay, so with that in the back of my mind, I went home last night and over dinner was telling Maca about the movie etc.  I was trying to freak her out by telling her we would have to watch it when we were all alone, when it was dark (and rainy, por supuesto)... Obviously trying to psych each other out...


Well I was the one who got a little "psyched-out."  That night, I go to sleep in my warm, cozy little bed and when I was about to start dreaming sleep dreams, about at the end of my REM cycle.... I am awoken by a strange, strange noise... It is 5:44AM.  I can't exactly make out what it is at first.  ((Note:  There are occasionally dogs barking and cats meowing throughout the night, which I have gotten used to.))  Then, I can kinda make out that it may be cats.  But these cats sound like they are dying.  Actually more like they are being tortured.  I cannot even begin to describe the sound they are making.  It is shrill yet fuerte.  The other thing that freaks me out is the location.  It sounds like these cats may be on the roof above my bathroom or in the hallway or for a time being I thought they were coming from the grandmother's room, which is right next to mine.  Note that I am still groggy and kinda disoriented.  I just can't place these sounds.  


So I am laying in bed trying to rationalize what I am hearing.  But I can't rationalize it at all.  So with horror films already in the back of my mind, my thoughts go immediately to the most irrational conclusion:  My host family isn't who they say they are.  And my host grandmother is torturing cats in her bedroom, about to use them for a sacrificial ritual.  Thus, I am picturing my lovely Chilean grandmother with a witch's hat and caldron torturing cats... I know you all are thinking, "Sarah, this is absurd.  You are exaggerating."  But I am not.  I don't think anyone can understand these sounds.  And to my defense, it is 5:44 in the morning and I am kinda out of it to begin with.  Anyways, then at the climax of these crazy noises, I hear this THUMP! on the tin-like roof above my bathroom.  Then there is a rustle, the crazy noises kinda stop, and I am able to go back to sleep... which one would think is a good thing... except for the dreams nightmares.


I dreamt about the most logical explanation for these noise... the torture of cats by my host family... Oh and my dream was soo real.  It made no sense but it was soo real.  You know how it is with dreams, right?  Pues, I woke up to my alarm a little freaked out but eventually I kinda forgot about it all.  I was going to mention something to my host mom in the morning but I didn't know how to go about it... "Hola Mamá, did you hear those strange noises last night?  Were you all torturing cats or sacrificing them?  Or was it Grandma?"  Ehhh I didn't know what to say...  I mean, really, how does a gringa like me go about that?  Well, I didn't.


So tonight at dinner we are just chatting etc.  No big deal.  I don't even know how it came up, but there was a moment in the conversation where I felt I could insert the fact that I had a weird dream about torturing cats... But before I could get the whole sentence out, all I say is "Last night..." when my host dad says, "Oh did you hear the cats?"  And of course, I am like "YESSSSS!!!! What the heck?!"  Papá then says nonchalantly, "Yeah the month of the cats is usually in August..."  Then my host mom pipes up, "The love of cats is very violent."  Lightbulb Moment.  Last night I was listening to two cats "making love" (I wouldn't exactly call it "love")... on my roof.  So the conversation gets unbearably hilarious as I begin to describe about how I was freaking out last night etc.  My host family, at this point, is picturing their little gringa, Sarita, laying in bed freaking out about the most seemingly normal thing.  Although my Papá was super annoyed that these darn cats woke him up, it was completely normal and at one point he said, "We're just lucky there wasn't more than two."  What?!  I cannot even imagine the sounds from more than two.  Anyways, then he says to me, "Oo Sarita, did you hear them fall?!"  At that point, I lose it and about had water coming out of my nose.  I mean, come on ya'll, just imagine this whole process... Imagine (or don't) two cats getting busy on the roof and then falling... What the world?!  


So, in the end, there was, after all, a logical explanation - cats breeding on the roof of my bedroom and then falling on the tin roof of my bathroom in the middle of the night.  Naturally.  And to think that I thought my Chilean family (or grandma in particular) was torturing cats in their spare time to sacrifice... What was I thinking?


Well, I hope you all at least got somewhat of a chuckle from this story.  At least, I did.  Now, I am off to bed.  Please pray that there aren't any cats getting it on tonight on my roof... I'm tired enough as it is and need a good night's rest.  :)


Buenas noches,
Ciao!


Sarah

Friday, September 23, 2011

¡Viva Valpo!

Well hello there, my blog readers


Hope ya'll are doing well tonight... It is a Friday night after all.  Thus, you are all probably wondering why a party-animal like me is not out on the town, but instead is updating her blog.  Well, good question.  The reason is I am absolutely exhausted.  This morning a few girls and I headed out pretty early for Valparaíso, Chile (on the Pacific Ocean, about 1.5 hours from Santiago, I was pretty much there last weekend too... But it's just soo close and beautiful).  Anyways, we had a fun-filled day of wandering through the colorful streets of Valpo (as it is so affectionately called) as well as venturing up and down the cerros (or hills) of the city.  In fact, Valpo is so hilly that they installed ascensores (elevators) to go up and down the hills.  The first was actually constructed in 1883, I think, and there are about 15 in total that have been declared Historical Monuments.  Very cool, and steep.  But the view... maravillosa.  Besides walking around, seeing the sites, taking elevator rides, we also hopped on a boat - yes, a boat - and took a little boat ride around the port/harbor.  Pretty amazing if I'm completely honest.  The coolest part was probably the fact that we saw multiple seals!!  Yes, seals, actual, real, live, seals.... But it gets better.  We also saw a PENGUIN.  A PENGUIN.  I thought I would have to trek down to Patagonia to see one of those in the wild.  But nope, there was a cute little penguin just chillin' in the Valpo harbor, splish-splashin' away like nobody's business.  I kinda wanted to steal him and take him home in my backpack.  Wait, does that sound familiar to anybody?  :)  Anyways, Valpo was a complete success.  ((Oh might I add an interesting fact about the port?  This is particularly for my dad, who I know will find this fascinating.  After Chile's powerful and destructive 1985 earthquake, Chile or Valpo or someone sold the Valparaíso port to the Germans, who currently own and control the Valpo port until 2020, I believe.  Kinda interesting, eh?  Now, note that my source was the 15-year-old Chilean boy who served as our "tour-guide" on this little boat ride, but I think he was pretty legit.))

Quick cultural note on Valpo:  The city is beautiful and charming with all the hills, the ocean, and all the colorful houses that build upon one another up and down all the hills.  However, it is a different type of beautiful and charming.  Valpo is not a ritzy place.  In fact, I would say (and my Chilean friend confirmed) that the majority of those living in Valpo are at least a little below middle class.  (Note:  Chile's middle class is not like the middle class of the US.  Even though Chile is considered the most economically developed country in Latin America, its standards of living are substantially lower than those we as US citizens are used to.)  Do not be mistaken, even though the colorful little homes are charming, I don't think they're "cute" like most people might think of "cute."  To speak frankly, they aren't the most well-kept homes and things aren't always clean, nice, and organized.  (And I'm not saying that everything is all nice and clean in the US.  I mean, we all know that is not true.)  In fact, much of Santiago is like this as well.  I guess the reason I am going on and on about this is because I think it is easy, being an affluent and completely blessed US citizen studying abroad at a private university, to see everything through rose-colored glasses.  I know I did that a little in Spain.  People are hurting here in Chile.  Times are tough and things are not easy just like in much of the world.  Chile may be thriving economically with its exportation.  However, I would say that the majority of Chileans are definitely not "thriving."  Chilean society is very economically segregated.  Most of the money lies at the top.

Okay, but I am stopping there.  That was only supposed to be a side-"note" so I'll move on.  Yesterday was a pretty legit day as well for me.  If you must know, my friend Amanda and I ventured into one of my favorite barrios in Santiago and found a cute, trendy coffee shop (El Observatorio), which reminded me quite a bit of Chicago. Then we met up with two more friends for lunch at a place called Malas Artes.  Very trendy and fun.  Then for photography class we went to two museums and took pictures around the park and that same barrio.  It was one of those days that you just wanted to deeply breathe in and absorb.  Kinda like today.  It was just good.  Words cannot describe how blessed I am to be here, and for my last semester of college, might I add.  Way to go out with a bang, eh?  Bittersweet though, ya know?  I miss Loyola, Chicago, my friends (roomies!), family, and the whole nine yards.  But you're only 21 and in college for a little bit, right?  I better "live it up" while I can.  Meaning I better get back to my fomé (lame) Friday night and get to bed early!!  Whatever, don't judge me, it was a long day and I am stoked to sleep in tomorrow.

Alrighty, I'm peacin' out.  Check out the new photo album on the left.
Besitos a todos,
Sarah

PS I think I am allergic to the detergent they use here... :/  Going to JUMBO tomorrow to see if I can find some Tide as well as a fanny-pack (they are super popular here and I want to blend in!!).  Hahaha.

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Chile in All Her Glory ((Fiestas Patrias))

Hello All!!
Soo right now I am sitting down in the living room after a long walk in the park (and some journaling)... Why the long walk?  Well, this afternoon I think I ate my weight in Chilean food.  Okay, okay, that's a bit of an exaggeration, but I'm not kidding, it was like the equivalent of our Thanksgiving in terms of food.  What was exactly?  Chilean Independence Day!!  Otherwise known as Fiestas Patrias!!  So imagine 4th of July combined with a Thanksgiving Feast plus some crazy Chilean dancing as well as "terremotos" (traditional Chilean drink that will knock you on your butt - kinda difficult to explain but I will tell you that it has pineapple ice cream in it.  Sounds interesting, eh?)
Anywhoo, on Friday, in celebration of Fiestas Patrias, I took the bus out to Viña del Mar (Valparaíso and Concón - they're all next to each other, all of which are on the coast) at the invitation of my Chilean friend, Christian, whose family has a home out there.  Pretty darn lucky, I'd say.  So I got to do some sight-seeing around Valparaíso as well as take an afternoon to explore the coast of Concón (see pictures on your left entitled "Fiestas Patrias").  Wow... Literally jaw-dropping views... Don't believe me?  Okay then, check out these videos that I made especially for you all.  ((Pictures are great, but with videos you get movement and sound!! i.e. the sound of my voice narrating and the sound of the waves!))






Video 2 Pending...



Yes, I did get a little video-happy, but I am hoping you all appreciate the videos!!  As you can see from video #2 I was standing on a peninsula of rocks surrounded by the crashing waves.  It was incredible.  It was a moment of complete contentment and awe, some of which had to do with my listening to this sweet podcast about God's faithfulness to us as His people.  It talked about how covenants were made back in the Old Testament:  they would cut in two different animals and then walk between them to symbolize the people's agreement, kinda to symbolize the shared responsibility in making this covenant.  Anyways, so when God makes His covenant with Abraham, Abraham cuts up all these animals but then only God passes between them, thus symbolizing that even if Abraham (i.e. us as humans) break our part of the "deal" (which we do of course) God is the one who will take responsibility and pay the price (i.e. He sent His one and only Son to die on the cross for our sins).  Wow.  Talk about faithfulness and steadfastness towards us.  His unbreakable love for us, His rebellious and defiant people. So to bring this tangent back to the ocean and the rocks etc.  I was standing there in awe of the God who made the beauty and power before my eyes and I realized that all those things aren't even God's greatest love or greatest treasure.  Instead, we are... these wicked sinful humans who go around hurting other people, starting wars between nations as well as between friends/family, constantly screwing up and being selfish etc...  Of all the things God created, we are the "apple" of His eye.  Whoa... Take that for some perspective...
Okay, so beyond my tangent was the rest of my weekend, which consisted of a wonderful BBQ and some dancing on Saturday night.  Oh, note: I wish I had grown up dancing like these Chileans have... Plus, unlike our "bump & grind" that we got going on in the U.S. of A, Chileans have actual "dances" like salsa, merengue, cueca... It is actually a lot of fun!!  And in my case, it would have been much more fun if I knew what the heck I was doing out there on the "dance floor"!!!  Sunday morning I got up early to take the bus back home to Santiago where everyone was ready to grill-out and feast like kings!  I won't go into an insane amount of detail about the food because that will either bore you or make your mouth water but I will say a few things.  As a "pre-game" food we had "chori-pan," which consists of grilled chorizo (a type of sausage, from Spain) in little buns (i.e. "pan" for "bread").  Delicious.  As a dessert, we drank/ate "mote con huesillos," which has peaches that have been "marinated" (for lack of a better word in English) in sugar water etc. thus making this wonderful juice to which you add "trago," which are these weird wheat-like noodle-like things... Honestly, I might have to take a picture for ya'll.  It's kinda indescribable.. at least in English.. :)  Also, I might add a funny note... So as my host dad (Papá) was placing this "steak" on my plate, my host mom (Mamá) asks me if we have "meat" in Iowa or if I eat a lot of meat or something like that.  I bust out laughing.  Of course!!!  I am from Iowa!!!  Chileans don't understand that they haven't had a steak until they have eaten steak in the US.  Oooh Chile.  Gotta love it!!
Okay, okay so I need to get going and Skype my real parents as well as answer some emails... Tomorrow I am going to go to the Estado Nacional for some real celebrating!!  Updates later.
¡Ciao!
Besos
Sarah

Saturday, September 10, 2011

Pomaire & Isla Negra

Hello my dear friends and family!!


Today I am feeling a bit under the weather, probably due to my exciting and long day yesterday.  However, it is all for the best since I am taking the time to relax, answer emails, and update my blog for you all - including pictures.  Yay!!  Anyways, so my exciting (and long) day yesterday... USAC (my study abroad program) organized a day trip for all of us to Pomaire and Isla Negra. 


First, a little background info:  Pomaire is located about halfway between Santiago and the coast.  Founded by the Quechuas, who emigrated from Peru, this little village is home to amazing clay pottery.  Enormous flower pots as well as other varieties and sizes of containers, pots, and vases are everywhere.  Although much of the pottery is painted, typical pottery is of either a clay-color light brown or a darker brown.  Pomaire is also known for its amazingly sturdy cookware as well as piggy banks.  Many vendors sell little clay pigs the size of a bean, which are supposed to be good luck.  Furthermore, Pomaire is home to the world's largest empanada, although my host mother claims their empanadas aren't very good and their cazuela (a type of soup, more or less) is much better.  After spending the day in Pomaire and trying both their empanadas and cazuela, I would have to agree with mi madre chilena.  And although I would have loved to take quite a few things home with me for gifts etc., I left Pomaire without a darn thing.  However, I think that's for the best - transporting fragile pottery isn't the easiest thing to do.  But I can always go back if I change my mind since it is only 45 minutes to an hour outside of Santiago by bus.


After watching artisans spin amazing pottery, wandering the vendor-filled streets, and trying their typical food, we hopped back on the bus to head to Isla Negra, a small town located on the Pacific Ocean famous for being a favorite place of Pablo Neruda.  Neruda, probably the most famous Chilean poet and winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1971, had three homes, one of which is in Isla Negra.  A stunning little stone home on the edge of the sea filled with all types of international treasures from Neruda's time spent abroad as a diplomat.  The view was absolutely stunning.  And the smell... wow, the air smelled so fresh and wet, unlike the air in Santiago, which smells of smog and other things.  


All in all it was a great day!! And today, my host family and I prepared paella with chicken and seafood.  It was absolutely delicious!  Take a look:


Well, after writing this post as short as it is, I am exhausted.  So I am going to go fix some lemon and honey tea and rest awhile before dinner.  I hope you all are doing well.  I miss you tons!

Saludos cariñosos,

Sarah

Friday, September 2, 2011

El Día Que Enamoré De Santiago

El Día Que Enamoré De Santiago (The Day That I Fell In Love With Santiago)


Seeing as I just added some more photos to the photobucket album (located on the the right-hand side, called "Chile The Beginning"), I thought it appropriate to add a little "blurb" about what I did today to bring about 50 new fotografías.  Prepare yourselves.  :)


This morning, mi Mamá (Chilena) and I woke up before the sun to head to the center of the city to meet up with the rest of my group in order to register our visas at the PDI (Policia De Investigaciones, like the FBI).  ((Mi Mamá felt obligated to come with me and make sure I arrived safely.  I tried to talk her out of it, saying that I am familiar with the metro system and I could do it alone, but she was very stubborn and adamant on taking me!))  Pues, after all of the business was out of the way, it was time for some CAFÉ con leche.  Three of my USAC friends and I chatted it up with our coffees (not instant, like the rest of Chile) at a cute "cafetería" near Plaza de Armas, which is the center of the city, more or less, at least it was the center of the city when Santiago was founded in the 1500s.  Entonces,  we traveled through the Plaza de Armas, picked up some postcards, took a few pictures, and got stared at a bit before we headed to Mercado Central.  This open air market was a bit touristy for me.  Most of the vendors spoke broken-English to us, which we found annoying and a little offensive - just because we are "gringas" doesn't mean we don't know Spanish!!  Anyways, we didn't spend much time there other than browsing the frutas y verduras as well as breathing in the smell of fresh fish and slabs of raw meat.  :)  Gotta love those Mercado Centrals!!


Por la tarde, we met up with my Chilean friend, Wen (who is absolutely fantastic, by the way) and then the real adventure began.  With Wen, we were invincible!!  It always helps to have a native with you.  Not only do they know all the best things to do and how to get you there but they keep you (gringos) from getting ripped off at the ferías (fairs) and in other places.  We walked all over the place, including El Museo de Bellas Artes, which was gorgeous, and then to the Barrio (neighborhood) Bellas Artes.  I think I took the most pictures of the Bellas Artes district because it was so beautiful.  Very artsy, colorful.  Full of life and cafés with delicious food and drinks.  For example, we all stopped at a little outdoors café for a delicious lunch of "lomo a lo pobre" and pisco sours.  ((Note:  "Lomo a lo pobre" consists, more or less, of a huge piece of steak with french fries, sauteed onions, and over-easy eggs = DELICIOSO!!))  As for pisco sours... Pisco is a typical drink in Chile (as well as Peru, but don't get Chileans or Peruvians started about who can really claim pisco as their own - it's a heated topic).  I don't exactly know how to explain pisco... It is very strong or fuerte.  (I just Wikipedia'ed pisco and it says it is a colorless, grape brandy... Thank you, Wikipedia!!)  Chileans also drink "piscolas," which is kinda like a rum and Coke... Anyways, that was something to check off my list of Typical-Chilean-Things-To-Do!  Afterwards, we headed up to Pablo Neruda's house.  ((Pablo Neruda is a famous Chilean poet (1904-1973) who "united a generation" and is legendary.  Amazing poetry - you should all check him out or at least watch The Postman, a movie about him.))  Pues, Neruda has three homes - one in Santiago, one in Isla Negra, and one in Valparaíso.  His home in Santiago he designed to feel like a boat... Very artsy, but he can get away with it for sure.  It was an absolutely precious and tranquil home.  He build this one especially for getaways with one of his many "amantes" (lovers), Matilde.  ((Fidelity wasn't his thing.))


To end the trek through Santiago Central and Bellas Artes, we walked through the winding, stone streets of the Barrio Lastarria, cerca de la Universidad Católica, which were lined with vendors selling second-hand books and antiques as well as trendy cafés and charming churches.  I think it was at this point in the day when I paused to breathe in the Chilean air and I thought about how absolutely blessed I am to have this amazing opportunity to study in Santiago, Chile and experience this culture and everything it encompasses.  Wow.  Thus, I think I fell in love (a little) with Santiago today.  Like Spain, I am destined to leave a little piece of my heart here forever.  Me encanta.  


Pues, check out the pictures!!


Saludos cariñosos,
Sarah