Monday, October 17, 2011

In the Name of Steak

Oh, boy, do I have a whale of a story for you all today... 


It all began on Thursday night as five (myself included) very excited gringas met at the bus station in Santiago in order to embark on their (normally 7-hour) bus ride to Mendoza, Argentina (just across the Andes border into neighboring Argentina).  We had been talking about all we were going to do in Mendoza - go shopping for cuero (leather), eat fantastic amounts of meat (it is Argentina after all), tour wineries and drink rich wine (although Chilean wine is substantially better, in my opinion and I think all Chileans would agree).  Needless to say, mis amigas y yo were STOKED.  However, our dreams came crashing down as we approached the ticket window to inquire about our platform and the man behind the desk said two words:  Está cerrado.  For those of you who know little-to-no Spanish, that is code for Closed.  ¿Por qué está cerrado?  We inquired.  Well, as it turns out, it was snowing heavily in the Andes and for safety reasons they had to close the highway through the mountains.  


That would be pretty depressing if that was the end of our adventure.  However, the man changed our tickets for Friday morning at 7:30AM and told us to hope for the best.  Thus, a cool 6 hours later we were up and heading for the bus station once again... obviously sleep deprived and praying that the snow had begun to melt... However, before I move on, my arrival back to my house on Thursday night was a bit comical only because my host family was not at all expecting me to come through that door a mere two hours later.  Of course, they were like Sarita, ¿Qué pasó? (Sarah, what happened?).  Una palabra, mi familia, una palabra - NIEVE.  (One word, my family, one word - SNOW!)  Of course, they all busted out laughing, which is all I could do at that point as well.  As upset as we (the girls) were at this little set-back, all we could do was laugh and talk about how Mendoza better be worth it.  So anyways, Friday morning we all meet at the bus station, almost miss our bus (that's another side-story), but manage to make it in the nick of time.


The Bus Ride:  The bus ride can only be described as a truly Latin American experience.  Why?  Well, the normally 7 hour bus ride easily turned into a 13 hour bus ride and one of the longest days of our lives.  We traveled for about 2-3 hours out of Santiago, kinda in the mountains, when we stopped (standstill) for a little over 3 hours as we all waited for the road to open.  Luckily, we all were able to get up, walk around, grab a Coca-Cola Light and enjoy the scenery (as you will see if you check out my photo album to your left).  A little chilly but eventually we got moving again... Only to stop about 1.5 hours later at the border control where they searched all of our luggage and our baggage aboard.  At this point in the journey we are up in the mountains and it is freezing.  However, a mere 2.5 hours later we were moving again.  As we twisted and curved up the steep mountains on the narrow road, we all held out breath - out of fear of falling off the edge as well as out of pure awe of the beauty of the snow-capped Andes.  They were maravilloso.  I'm just sorry that my pictures don't do them justice, especially since I was on a moving bus snapping photos.  My apologies.  Anyways, we made it to Mendoza around 9:30PM and trekked it over to our hostel, which (Thank Goodness) was nice and clean and cute.  A little vino and a few games of MASH (yes, we are twelve, thank you very much) later we were a bit more relaxed and over the whole 13-hour-bus-ride-horror of the day.  Buenas Noches.


The next day (Saturday) we woke up and were up and going to buy us some CUERO.  Leather, leather, leather - that's all we had heard about Mendoza, other than the wine, of course.  We trekked through most of the main parts of the city that day.  Although we weren't too impressed with the scenery and agreed that Chile is a bit nicer than Argentina, we did end up buying some leather, which made us all pretty happy.  However, what made us all ecstatic was our lunch.  Mi mamá recommended that we go to this place called Las Tinajas, which is a tenedor-libre (i.e. all-you-can-eat) restaurant.  We were advised to arrive early since it is a pretty popular joint, and popular it was.  After standing in a line outside for a bit, we finally entered the restaurant of our dreams.  The most amazing food ever and all for the low price of about US$12, not including drinks.  We were all feeling pretty good about our lunch selection until we tried the meat when pretty good became an understatement... It changed our lives.  As a girl from Iowa who has eaten her fair share of good steaks, my mind was blown when I tasted thee most tender and juicy piece of cow I have ever eaten in my life.  I'm sorry Iowa, but Argentina has you beat hands-down on steak.  (Although Iowa still wins in pork!)  Whoa.  Needless to say, we were all ready for a nap after that meal.  And napping (in the park) is exactly what we did, before we went back to our hostel and napped some more.  Haha.  Obviously, that night for dinner we were in need of something a little, ahem, lighter.  So after some salads we journeyed back to our hostel for some more Mendozan wine and a few games of cards.  


Now if that would have been the end of our Mendoza experience, we would have been pleased, although a little perturbed at the initial bus ride, pleased nonetheless.  After two of the girls headed out Saturday night / Sunday morning, Emily, Katie, and I decided to stay and see a little more of Mendoza.  I mean, we did come all this way!  We wanted to make it worth it and worth it it was.  ¿Por qué?  Well, just take a little peak at this video of mine and perhaps you'll understand...






Yes, I absolutely did go paragliding in Mendoza, Argentina and I would absolutely do it again.  It was one of the best experiences of my life (so far!).  The scenery was astounding.  There is nothing like being 2,000 feet (if I did my calculations correctly) above the ground surrounded by the Andes mountains.  I could even see some snowcapped mountains in the distance.  The video footage is of the acrobatics Alejandro (my paragliding guide and best friend at that moment) had us do in the air.  It was like being on a roller-coaster but not at safe.  I am still in amazement that we could do all that with a parachute.  It was one of the most relaxing 20+ minutes of my life.  The trek in the 4x4 up the steep mountain was more frightening than paragliding itself.  Wow is the only word that really does it all justice.  

Needless to say, after that little adventure of ours, we were hungry and once again decided we had sufficient time to visit our favorite little all-you-can-eat Argentinean restaurant.  Oh, yes, that's right, we went back to Las Tinajas.  Of course, the servers remembered us, which was entertaining and a few of the Argentines we were chatting with while waiting in line wanted to take a picture with us.  Kinda weird but I think it's the whole gringa thing.  Although all three of us would agree that our steaks were not as good as the first time, they were still delicious along with the rest of the food.  After hurrying out of the restaurant and cabbing it over to the bus station, we were on our bus bound for Santiago, praying that the journey would not take 13+ hours.  It didn't, thank goodness.  

However, we were a little worried about the journey when we first got on the bus because we were surrounded by Chilean or Argentinean (??) men playing their loud Latin music and just being plain obnoxious.  As three females from the US, we looked at each other and asked:  What planet are these people from that they think it is okay to play their music out loud on a public bus and not just any bus but a night bus where people are clearly trying to sleep?!?!  Rude.  As we were beginning to think that this was going to be another long ride, the hero-of-a-man sitting next to us asked one of the bus attendants to ask the "gentlemen" to turn their obnoxious and wildly inappropriately loud music down.  They did.  Win.  However, the bus then decided it was a great idea to play a movie.  Great idea in theory, but when you choose Fast & Furious with gunshots and loud cars... come on.  We thought maybe this was a joke as we tried to ignore the bang! bang! and vrooom! vrooom! of Paul Walker and Vin Diesel.  However, once again, we were saved by the same hero-of-a-man who, once again, complained and thus the volume was turned down substantially.

After sleeping un poquito we were once again stopped for an impromptu search of the bus, where three scary Argentinean policemen climbed aboard the bus to check two peoples' passports.  (We later found out they were Israeli and figured it must have been some Homeland Security thing... as discriminatory as that sounds, it is true.)  Then a mere hour later we were at the border control going through the motions, half asleep.  The drug-sniffing dogs were definitely doing their jobs, although no big deals occurred.  Although one of the Israelis, who couldn't have been older than 24, had to open up his bag and show the police his hackie-sacks... Perhaps they thought there were drugs or something inside.  The police didn't understand his broken Spanish as he tried to explain to them what they were used for.  So finally, the kid just picked up all four of them and started to juggle, which ended in a "big" smile from the policeman and a cheerful applause from the crowd.  

Ugh, long night, but finally we arrived back in Santiago around 6AM.  I don't know about the other girls but I definitely skipped class today, which I know won't make my parents very pleased but I hope you all can empathize with me a little after hearing about my crazy weekend, specifically the insane bus rides.  After all is said and done, Mendoza was a success.  And the way I look at the bus rides is this:  Practice for the many more bus rides I will have to take in Latin America, specifically Peru when I bus up to Machu Picchu... I hear Peru can be a little more wild compared to the heavily European influenced countries of Argentina and Chile.

Anywho, I am still exhausted and have to get some studying done... Although I skipped class, I still have a test on Wednesday.  I hope you all enjoyed my little narration of my trip to Mendoza and my photos/video.  Moral of the story:  If you ever get a chance to go paragliding, do it.  It will make the 13+ hour bus ride entirely worth it.

¡Ciao!












Saturday, October 1, 2011

Viña Undurraga y Mucho Vino Rico

Hello my faithful-blog-reading friends and family,

Although I haven't ran into more tear gas or had cats making crazy noises on my roof, I thought I should update ya'll on my latest Chilean experience.  Vino, vino, y más vino.  On Friday, five of my amigas and I went to a vineyard in Maipo Valley, which is the region around Santiago.  Viña Undurraga.  It was absolutely gorgeous.  Hundreds and hundreds of acres of grapes surrounded by the Andes Mountains.  Picturesque is an understatement.  We had our own tour of the facilities - the vineyards, the wine cellar with the French and America Oak barrels, the place where they squeeze all the grapes as well as where they allow the wine to ferment etc.  It was quite impressive, especially since it was my first tour of a vineyard.  Viña Undurraga produces seventeen million liters of wine per year and exports about 65-70% of that wine.  Viña Undurraga  (Please check out the link - it is great!!)  This particular winery is the only winery in Chile that hand-picks its grapes off the vines.  Pretty nifty, I'd say.  (And yes, I did just use the word "nifty.")

Anyways, it was a beautiful and informative experience.  However, the best part (of course) was the wine.  We sampled four different types (as you can see by checking out my photo album of the vineyard on the left-side of my blog page).  1. T.H. Sauvignon Blanc  2. Aliwen Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah  3. Sibaris Cabernet Sauvignon  4. Late Harvest   All of them were absolutely rico, rico, rico.  Very, very good.  The fourth, Late Harvest, is a sweet, sweet white wine.  The best way I can describe drinking it is by saying it was like drinking honey.  I kid you not. If any of you, my blog followers, are into wine, I would highly recommend writing down Undurraga and the names T.H., Aliwen, Sibaris, and Late Harvest and going to your nearest Hy-Vee (or whatever it is) and see if they carry any of these wines.  You won't regret it.  ((PS If you do end up finding any of these in your grocery store, let me know!  Also I'd be interested in knowing the price as well.  I know my dad has found Maipo Valley wine before but I wonder about this particular winery, especially since they export 65-70% of their wine.))  All in all, it was a fantastic experience!  We would like to return in December when there are more grapes etc.  It is still pretty early in the season.

Chilean wine definitely gives Spanish wine a run for its money.  Although I might add that Spanish wine is a lot cheaper, so you get a lot more bang for your buck - so to speak.  Other than wine, however, my weekend has been quite chill, which is exactly what I wanted.  Today mi mamá chilena took me with her to la universidad de mi hermana (Universidad Católica) to drop off lunch.  It was maravillosa y impresionante.  Universidad Católica has multiple campuses.  This particular campus is for the arts and mi mamá says it is comparable to the Juilliard of Chile.  I felt like I was in a different world.  The building was amazing, over 100 years old, historic, stone, with many corridors and terraces as well as a stunning church and courtyard.  With the sound of all the musically-talented filling the halls, I kinda felt like I was in a movie set in Europe way back in the day.  I could have stayed there forever.  To study there would be a dream!  Just to eat lunch in one of the courtyards or read a good book under one of the huge trees in the terraces would be amazing and memorable.  Needless to say, I was a little jealous.  Haha.  

As for the rest of my weekend, well tomorrow (Sunday) we are going to have some fun with food!  In the morning, I am going to teach my family how to make oatmeal raisin cookies.  Then for lunch I am preparing fish tacos.  I might add that a family friend is visiting in the afternoon so of course the food will be rico for that too.  Hopefully the baking and fish tacos go well.  Cross your fingers.  :)  We are slowly going to work our way through some of my recipes from los Estados Unidos.  Should be a good time.  *Fun Note:  Today I squeezed un montón of naranjas (oranges) for fresh orange juice - delicioso.  We also ate completos the other night.  I had previously tried a completo on the streets, which I thought was disgusting, but my host family convinced me to give it another go and try their completos made en casa.  They were definitely MUCH better.  I can now say that I actually like completos, which are essentially and traditionally hotdogs with tomatoes, avocado, and mayo.  A little weird?  YES!!  Will I make you all try it when I get back to the States?  YES!!!!!!!  So prepare yourselves.  :)

Okay, okay, enough of this, I'm out.  House is on Chilean TV... need I say more???

¡Ciao!




Note (Added on Sunday):
Alright so I thought I needed to let you know how all this baking went this morning.  One of my host sisters (Maca) helped me baked oatmeal raisin cookies, which turned out delicioso and everyone loved them!  Then, my host mom talked me into baking banana bread, which turned into something more like banana cake since we didn't have the normal pan.  ¡Pero fue exitoso!  (But it was successful!)  For the most part, the desserts will be eaten with this amazingly rich English tea that mi mamá won at JUMBO, the grocery store here, the story of which is quite cute.  Mi mamá was shopping in JUMBO and they had this drawing for this really nice wooden box filled with some of the best (and most expensive) English teas.  So of course, mi mamá entered and she ended up winning!  She is absolutely THRILLED and has told the story to about everyone she has encountered.  It's quite adorable.  Anyways, this afternoon was very chill.  Ximena, a family friend, came to visit just in time for my fish tacos, which were also quite exitoso.  Now we are taking a break before we have once, or tea.  Soo I should probably do some homework but I kinda want to take a siesta.
Hope ya'll are having a great weekend.  Don't worry about me, I'm just livin' the vida chilena.  :)

Thursday, September 29, 2011

Bombas Lacrimógenas: Gettin´ Rowdy In Santiago

I bet ya´ll didn´t expect to hear from me so soon.  But don´t worry, the cats did not return last night.  Believe-it-or-not, I have something much better for ya´ll.  My First Tear Gas Experience.  Yippee!!  Tear Gas = Bombas Lacrimógenas in Spanish.

So things have been heating up in Santiago and Chile in general with the student protests/demands for a change in the education system.  Recently, the student leaders of FECH agreed to hold talks with Piñera´s government.  However, they said that the protests and student demonstrations would not cease.  And they aren´t.  In fact, today they came across loud and clear.  The march started down the street from where I go to school at Plaza Italia but quickly spread throughout the downtown area.  Honestly, things didn´t seem any different going to class this morning etc.  Just another Thursday with marches down the street.  No big deal.  However, around 1:00PM when a group of us gringos were eating lunch outside, the air started to get a little tense as the students were on edge.  Even the vendors started to move their carts down the road.  Occasionally, you would see all the students take off running.  Kind of a weird feeling walking in one direction and then all of a sudden everyone turns around and starts running towards you... Well, they´re running away from the police, obviously, who are using water bombs as well as tear gas to control the crowds.  These manifestaciones can quickly turn violent if one trashcan is overturned or one rock is thrown.  As gringos and international students, we are told to stay as far away as possible.  And usually we do... But before we know it, the potent stench of tear gas comes floating our way.  Luckily it wasn't as concentrated as it could have been but it was enough to make your throat feel as if it were on fire as it starts to close up and as tears begin to stream down your face.  Everyone was sneezing the rest of the day.  It is some crazy stuff let me tell you.  I can't even imagine actually protesting and getting that stuff sprayed literally all around you.  Known fact, lemons help.  So all over the streets you could see discarded lemon carcasses.  Kinda wild, right?


Anywhoo, since I am already writing to ya'll, I should go ahead and tell you about the delicious Peruvian food I ate tonight.  Pretty darn fantastic.  I went all out and got pescado y mariscos con arroz - white fish, scallops, octopus, calamari, the whole nine yards topped with this amazing yellow cream sauce.  I was very satisfecha, needless to say.  Yum, yum.  Tomorrow (Friday) night, my host mom is going to prepare Chilean completos, which are the hot dogs they top with tomato, mayo, and avocado.  I've already tried one (which I didn't like...) but my host mom is convinced that I will like hers (which I probably will... I mean, who doesn't like hotdogs, let alone topped with mayo, avocado, and tomato? haha).  No really, I'll probably eat two.  :)  Also, mañana I am going with friends to a vineyard outside of Santiago in the Maipo Valley.  So next time ya'll go to Hy-Vee looking for a good cabernet to have with your delicious Iowa corn-fed meat, go with the Chilean Maipo Valley... I'll let you know how it goes.  So expect another blog post at the end of this weekend.


Hope ya'll enjoy your weekend!!


¡Ciao!




Just in case you all are interested in a little light reading...


BBC Article: Chilean Student Protests


Santiago Times Article